A Tour Through Belfast
Whenever you get the opportunity to make the slightest detour to a final destination and experience a different part of the world, do it. No matter if your ancillary time is nothing more than a passageway to another destination, make the time count.
This, our second trip to Ireland, leads us to Donegal for our daughter's wedding. Although our time was limited, we didn't want to miss a short stop in Belfast. Our final destination was Donegal, Ireland, on the western coastline of the country, by way of Belfast in Northern Ireland.
Len, the boys and myself arrived in Dublin at 5:30 a.m., picked up our Dooley's rental car - and returned it due to the flat tire they let us drive off with - and finally zig-zagged to the M2, making a beeline toward Belfast. We only had this day to spend in the northern city, so ignoring jet lag and fueling with coffee kept us going.
Belfast, like Dublin, was a bear to navigate. Getting accustomed to driving on the left side of the road usually takes us about two days to master, which we did not have. Metropolitan cities are hard; don't let anyone tell you otherwise.
Our first stop, Titanic Belfast.
Titanic Belfast
My mother was born the week Titanic sank. Strangely enough, the far-fetched connection has always drawn me closer to this story and the fate of these people. But who doesn't love a romance (of sorts) on the high seas, icebergs, the filthy rich who defied fate, the lower classes in search of the dream that America offered, and a tragedy that miraculously included survivors. It contained all the elements of a masterful drama. This structure in downtown Belfast housed all of that, but what was most exciting, was this. The drawings, etchings and pictorial hangings went beyond the ill-fated voyage and introduced the laborers, the dreamers, the business of ship building. The White Star Line was much more than the Titanic; it only stole the show when it did the unthinkable. Here, you will learn about the ingenious masterminds behind a century of shipbuilders and walk in the exact spot with Titanic, as well as other White Star Lines vessels, were imagined and built.
Titanic Belfast is within yards of the Slipways, the Harland & Wolff Drawing Offices and the S.S. Nomadic. Titanic Belfast® is located 100 metres in front of where Titanic's hull was constructed and launched; to its right is the drawing office where she was designed and to the left is the Victoria Channel from where she first set sail. The iconic design is symbolic of the water, the ships bow and the White Star logo.
Through the halls of the museum during the self-guided tour. It is not simply about the White Star's loss but about the majesty of what was built and those who made the dream a reality.
The recipient of this ticket no. 1342, Captain Alexander Matier, was unable to attend the launch. According to Henry Aldridge & Sons it is said to one of the most desirable launch tickets and is believed to be the only one of this calibre known. In May, 1911, the Titanic was launched into the Victoria Channel in Belfast Lough from a slipway at the Queen's Yard of the Harland & Wolff shipyard.
S.S. Nomadic
The S.S. Nomadic is the only remaining tender - in fact, the only vessel built by the White Star Line in existence today - used in 1912 to transport the first and second class passengers from Cherbourg, France, out to the S.S. Titanic which was moored in deeper waters off shore. Built by the same builder as White Star LIne's Titanic, the Nomadic, often referred to as the "mini Titanic" has been restored to her former glory. It was constructed in Slip 1 while the massive Titanic was built in Slip 3. Built in 1911, it was in service until 1958, a total of 57 years while the Titanic was in service only 13 days.
Who might have walked on board this beautiful vessel? Sir Bruce Ismay of the White Star Line who survived the sinking but was labeled as The Coward of the Titanic; Benjamin Guggehneim, a wealthy American whose body was never recovered when the Titanic sank; the "Unsinkable" Molly Brown who survived the sinking while encouraging life rafts to returned for survivors; Marie Curie who boarded the Nomadic in 1921 for a trip to America; Charlie Chaplin boarded in 1952 who was returning to England; and Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton who boarded in 1964 on route to the Queen Elizabeth.
When You Go | Titanic Belfast: Purchase the White Star Premium Pass which provides access to the museum, the Nomadic and a Discovery tour. Adults, 30 (pounds). And, you'll get a souvenir photograph on the ship's bow.
Carrickfergus Castle
Heading north from Belfast, we stopped and visited our new friends in Carrickfergus. About a 30 minute drive, you leave the hustle of the big city and are dropped into a quaint coastal town.
Here's the backstory:
Bursting with over 800 years of history, Carrickfergus Castle rises high above the sea. Its remaining walls visibly represent its strength and battle as a fortress during the centuries It was built after 1177 by John de Courcy, an Anglo Norman Knight. As the years passed, rooms and various structures were added as the population and needs grew. The castle protected the medieval town, and the wall that built between 1708 and 1615 still partially stand.
The tallest and most prominent tower, the Keep, the castle's strongest and safest part. At it lowest level, a protected well. In between, tiny areas etched out of the rock where crossbows could fire upon enemies. There was a chapel which was an important part of life; the constable's quarters, a gated prison, and a kitchen.
When You Go | Carrickfergus Castle: Check in at the visitor center. Guided tours are available with advance booking. Educational packages, too. Price (pounds): Adult, 5; children 3; senior citizen 3. Family up to 5 members, 13. Limited wheelchair access. Summer hours: 8:30 a.m. - 5 p.m.; winter hours: 10 a.m. - 4 p.m. Ask about the doors and driving and coffee houses. Superb staff that will make you feel right at home. Carrickfergus Castle, Marine Highway, Carrickfergus, County Antrim, BT38 7BG
Visit Belfast &
Northern Ireland
Ireland Tourism | Tourism Northern Ireland
Lodging: Malmaison, Belfast Centre.
Very contemporary and stylish; booked through hotels.com for 118.50 (pounds). Includes breakfast (only continental). Parking across the street in car park. Near Victoria Square. 34-38 Victoria Street, Belfast , BT1 3GH, United Kingdom
Car Rental: Dooley's. Although they let us drive off with a flat tire, they are most affordable and they have a solution to the insurance problem on rental cars. No hold of up to 2K placed on credit card. Do your research before renting vehicles.
Food: Granny Annies. Yes, it appears to be a chain. It was the answer when I asked for a pub with Guinness and food. Walking distance from Malmaison. Surprisingly delighted. And yes, good food! Live music! Flowing Guinness! All we needed!
Tours: Dalriada Kingdom Tours. For the most honest look at life on the Causeway Coast, contact Mark and his team for a personal look at its history and passion. Specializing in Giants Causeway and surrounding sites. Can customize with Game of Thrones locations, and more.