The drive is questionable with moments of breath-catching overlooks, adding twists and turns and switchbacks while climbing to a beautiful walled, 12th-century Medieval city on a hill. In the end when we reached the peak, this drive produced one of our most memorable days in Sicily.

Erice rises over the port of Trapani, 750 meters above sea level. The changing weather can change in an instant, shrouding the village in fog, but when the sun spotlights the stones, it's breathtaking. The town’s elevated position provides awe-inspiring views, especially at sunset when the lights of Trapani and the surrounding coast come to life. The air is crisp and refreshing.

The poet Virgil spoke of Erice in his work, the Aeneid, when he made a stop there on his way to Rome. Its history dates back to ancient times, believed to have been founded by the Elymians, an ancient Sicilian people, around the 6th century BC. Later, a significant Roman town with fluences from various civilizations, including the Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, and Spaniards, each leaving their mark on its architecture and culture.

The city contains narrow alleys and stone streets weaving through the menagerie of homes and businesses. Known as the "City of a Hundred Churches," Erice has 11 churches of medieval and Baroque architecture, with most in need of renovation and repair. Always taking advantage of an open door, we walked into a church in the midst of renovation, and got an exclusive look at what it takes to bring these walls back to life.

Its shining star is the Castello di Venere (Castle of Venus), perched atop Mount Erice was built by the remaining materials from the Temple of Venus (located beneath the castle). Legend has it that Venus once bathed in a nearby spring. Hence, the signs of two lovers that you'll find throughout the town. This vantage point offers views of the sea, the Aegadian Islands and Sicily’s northwestern coastline.

Our visit during the off season resulted in closings, both the castle, restaurants and shops, which was disheartening but allowed us to experience the city without crowds. High season hits in the spring, summer and fall, and a cable car (closed November - March, 4 euros) can take you to the top.

IF YOU GO

Caffe' San Giuliano

The perfect and only café open during our January trip. Fresh pastries and good wine, plus the most warming vegetable soup I've ever eaten. Chunks of garlic-and butter toasted bread elevated the soup, not to mention the Antichi Sapori di Sicilia (olive oil + peperoncini) that added more heat. Deana and Salvatore will welcome you to their intimate cafe.