Living on ….ISH Time
Aboard the S/V Mandalay in the Grenadines
Original Post | 2016
Writer’s Update 2023 | From Windjammer Sailing Adventures Facebook page | “My name is Charles J. Kropke, the new CEO of Windjammer Sailing Adventures and complete owner of the SV Mandalay. Reviving the Windjammer spirit of travel was always my dream. That dream was aborted by a bad partnership many years ago. Now, myself and fellow entrepreneurs Zachary Luttrell, Owner of Roaring Riot and Captain James Papagno, Owner of Bombarda Rums, are restoring the Mandalay and commencing on a new cruiseline that will revive adventure cruising the Windjammer way. But none of this would have happened without the diligent advocacy of Melodie Bair. She has been my eyes and ears, cheerleader and resource for the past two years. I owe her a gratitude that can never be repaid. She is the reason that the Mandalay will be saved. Thank you for all that you have done, Melodie. I will see you aboard on the maiden voyage.”
The COVID pandemic took its toll on the S/V Mandalay, and 2020 was the last year it was a commercial passenger vessel. It thrills me that the Windjammer Sailing Adventures and the team are restoring it to its former glory. Rest assured, Len and I will be on the maiden voyage when it takes to the waters again.
Even on Sunday morning in a church down south, the melody of Amazing Grace never sounded so good. Each day, as the sails were hoisted and the spiritual anthem echoed throughout the ship, the S/V Mandalay prepared to sail. No matter where he was, each passenger made his way to the upper deck to watch six or more burly men pull and tug ropes until the nine (or less depending on wind need) sails stood at attention. We watched, head uplifted, mouth dropped in awe of the stamina and power it took to get the grand old lady under way. The melody proclaimed we were moving, to another island, to another port. We had no clue of the time of day, just the fact that in the middle of the Southern Caribbean, we were changing course and what would happen between now and then didn't even matter. We had wind whipping through our hair, a bloody mary in hand, and we were open to anything. We were living on . . . ish time.
Ansa La Roche Carriacou, Chatham Bay Union Island
Bequia
Climbing the steep streets of Bequia on our way to Fort Hamilton. People are on the move or tucked inside buildings and homes working and watching.
Augustine Pollard stops at the drop of a hat, smiles and poses for cameras. He knows he's got the best job in the world.
Seargent Brothers Model Boat Shop in downtown Bequia squeezes big men into a tiny space. They are eager to show off their process and finally their masterpieces.
Canouan Island
One of the few resorts we see in our journey, Tamarind Beach Hotel and Yacht Club. They welcome us to their beach and their bar. It is quite different than most seaside accommodations we have seen thus far.
The Trump Casino will breathtaking views of Canouan Island. It was called Villa Monte Carlo, part of a upscale project to include custom designed villas and a golf course. That was 2003. Today, the casino which never opened is abandoned. Inside the windows, slot machines are bunched in the corner.
Crab races aboard the S/V Mandalay.
Tobago Cays, Mayreau
On Tobago Cay, a withered shack to the right contained men cooking the day's catch. Small boats would come and go, delivering the day's feast to people that we could not see. Numerous sailboats and catamarans were anchored in the bay.
Carriacou and Sandy Island
We stop to view a boatbuilder's progress. We hear someone who has traveled here in the last few years say, "This was here the last time I was here. Not much has changed." It's a slow process; at times, they must wait for materials to wash up on shore.
Carriacou is most noted for its rum, Jack Iron. Many visit to stock up on the potent elixir, clocking in at 99 proof. They call it engine fuel or paint stripper and is only sold on this small island.
The pristine and solitary stretch of Sandy Island beach. It is considered a nature reserve and is only accessible by boat.
Afraid of water? That’s me, and here’s what this experience taught me. Read “The Caribbean boat trip that cured my fear of water on BBC Travel.