The Villages of Western Sicily
Our first trip to Sicily was pre-pandemic, and we dreamed of returning yet never imagined it would happen so soon. That was 2017. Today, it’s January 2023, and we have settled down in Palermo, our third city on this adventure.
We are lucky to share this with our friends Joel and Sherry Pellegrino who share the same heritage as Len. A link to Italy which ancestors bonded centuries ago and we find ourselves searched for the answers today. Joel’s family is from the mainland, Castellano Grotte, a lovely village on Italy’s boot, while Len’s hails from Castellemmare del Golfo on the island of Sicily, about a 20 minute drive south of Palermo. We separated from Joel and Sherry and flew from Bari to Palermo, a one-hour flight, and picked up a rental car from Hertz. Nice to discover that we’re GOLD members which made the reservation seamless. Our habit continues of renting a hot-spot from car rental agencies. Although we have the Solis hotspot, we rent an additional spot from Hertz and use it constantly while we have the car. Navigation aides are paramount in foreign countries.
Our little Fiat Panda ushered us to the little harbor town, and it didn’t take our memory long to recall the steep, one-way, narrow cobblestone streets that require your head to turn on a swivel. Stop signs are suggestions as are lanes and red lights. The one sign to pay attention to is the circular sign with a red line through with a tow truck yanking your car skyward. We stay away from those signs for we have experienced that unfortunate affair.
Our Airbnb, highlighted with stray cats and screaming roosters, was within walking distance of the harbor. Not exactly what we expected, but we decided to stay. Tile floors and 12-foot stucco ceilings fought against the random, simple heaters in a few rooms. Not sure I ever got warm, and I have the sniffles to prove it.
However, staying in old town near the marina is a priority to experience the town. We’re told the town swells from a mere 10,000 this time of year to over 100,000 during warmer months. It’s silence today is exchanged for movement and chatter which we sorely miss. But there is something magical about walking the streets alone that lets you take in every piece of stone and the stories that came before.
We visited Cesare and his son, Aurelius. Speaking no English, Cesare offered family hugs that didn’t need translation. They revisit the family lineage each time, and with Aurelius there to translate, it became easier than the last time. Each spoke with their hands; no Italian necessary.
Traveling off-season to Castellemmare del Golfo proved to not be as easy as most destinations are. This coastal, tourist-driven town thirsts for activity during the winter; consequently, most shops, restaurants, bars, and activities are closed. We found the rare nuggets and when we couldn’t find a restaurant, a meat market for cheese and prosciutto satisfied the dinner craving.
The tiny streets are filled wall-to-wall with small cars mainly Fiats, with others interjecting themselves from side streets. Head on a swivel is an understatement.
Trapani | Located southwest from Castellemmare del Golfo, Trapani is know for the salt pans, the rustic windmills and the flamingos. Its artisanal production of salt extract salt from the sea. The seawater is fed into large ponds and water is drawn out through a natural process allowing salt to be harvested.
Corleone | Located about an hour south of Palermo, Corleone sits within the mountains and is best known for its local mafia clan who produced a multitude of mafia bosses. The route on the way to the distant village was more impressive than the village.
Scopella | Although totally deserted during the shoulder season, the coastal village of Scopella bursts with visitors during the warmer months. Considered part of Castellemmare del Golfo, this hot spot offers solitude and a seaside respite.
Mount Pellegrino | Located in Palermo, Mount Pellegrino offers views of the city and surrounding mountains as well as the Tyrrhenian Sea. It is home to Santuario di Santa Rosalia, the fourth female patron saint of Palermo. The sanctuary is a church and pilgrimage site located on a stone cliff of the mountain.
Palermo | Being at the right place at the right time, we ate pizza at a café in downtown Palermo when droves of reporters and officers swarmed the adjacent building. After a little research, it was the hearing for the last godfather of the Sicilian mafia (Cosa Nostra Mafia), the world’s most wanted criminal, who was apprehended just days before at a clinic in the city. Matteo Messina Denaro had been on the run for over 30 years.
Cefalu | Of “White Lotus” fame, Cefalu’s seaside location charms and attracts thousands of visitors each year.