Six Hours in Flagstaff
“The gladdest moment in human life, me thinks, is a departure into unknown lands.”
Amtrak’s Southwest Chief (from Chicago) pulled into the Flagstaff Arizona Depot and deposited us around 9 p.m. Researching the history of Flagstaff, we knew it had to be the Hotel Monte Vista, the Duke's old stomping grounds. And Clark Gabel. And Humphrey Bogart. With reservations, we pointed our tired bodies in that direction, gathered our two pieces of luggage and walked an easy two blocks to the Hotel Monte Vista for the night. The next day we were off via the Arizona Shuttle to Williams and the Grand Canyon.
We have come to a very wise travel conclusion: traveling becomes as much about the journey as the destination. We fully believe that getting there should be just as interesting and educational as the final aim. So rather than getting off the train in Willliams, the gateway to the Grand Canyon, we decided to spend a few short hours in a city neither of us had visited and see what treasures we could discover. Little did either of us realize, that this destination would be one that would take Len back to his childhood.
Our first stop the next day, the Flagstaff Visitor Center, located in the old Sante Fe passenger trail depot (also the Amtrak station) on Route 66. The people were extremely helpful and when we said we only had a few hours, they gladly pointed out the high spots for food and fun. Here's some perfect spots to get a taste of this western town that prides itself on light conservation, making sure that the view from the Lowell Observatory will always be extraordinary and clear. And, we're doing it all on the original Route 66.
Lowell Observatory | Mars Hill | The Home of Pluto
Sitting high above the city of Flagstaff with its birds-eye view is the Lowell Observatory. The centerpiece of a visitor's experience at the Lowell Observatory and Mars Hill - the Clark Telescope. Built in 1896, the Clark Refracting Telescope discovered the first evidence of an expanding universe in 1912. Currently, it is under renovation, but a peek through the glass door, takes you back in time when Percival Lowell sat beside the telescope hoping to further his theories on intelligent life on Mars. Len recalled reading books in elementary school regarding the search for Planet X and their team's efforts to find the elusive 9th planet of the solar system. Lowell's writing and research based on his observations using this telescope inspired scientists and writers (even school children) worldwide. It was also on Mars Hill that in 1930, observatory assistant Clyde Tombaugh first recognized the sighting of Pluto. In the 1960s, this telescope was used to create detailed maps of the moon to aid Apollo astronauts during their training. In 1977, a team discovered rings around Uranus.
You could easily spend two hours (or more ) here, especially if that inner nerd starts working in overdrive. They do have observing parties at night for special sightings. If you're there around at 1 p.m. on an unclouded day, researchers set up the telescope outside for a unique and direct view of the sun.
They serve just about everything, but they are known for the breakfast. Get there around 9 a.m. to avoid the crowds. Our waitress Paige graciously promoted the biscuits and gravy, their specialty, but recommended the burritos as the next best thing. So, a small order of biscuits and gravy (gravy typically Southern, but the huge biscuits had a whole grain texture - both great) to try their specialty and a burrito (for me) and waffles (for Len). There's just something extraordinary about starting the day off with green chilies! A must stop for great food and people watching.
Downtown Flagstaff
Flagstaff was one of the last areas of the West to be settled First the sheep ranchers, then the railroad, then Old Town as it was called, became a hub for railroad construction crew in 1880. Doubting whether the little town would make it, people continued to come and build, becoming a mainstay for livestock, lumber, tourism and government. The downtown was fully built by 1930. Use the brochure you pick up at the Visitor's Center for a self-guided tour of the historic walk through downtown where many building date back to the late 1800s and most, early 1900s. Today, it's a pedestrian and bike friendly town and boasts over 679 acres of city parks, many which host weekend farmers' markets. The city maintains an extensive network of trails. Don't miss the Weatherford Hotel built in 1898. It opened on New Years Day, 1900. It's also a great place to have lunch (Charly's Pub & Grill) and experience the foot traffic through the downtown district. The Monte Vista Hotel, built in 1926, opened in January 1927 and has been popular ever since, especially with the stars and celebrities who were filming movies nearby. Be prepared for stories of hauntings in both hotels, of lights flashing and unexplainable sounds at night. We stayed in room 402 of the Monte Vista - the John Wayne Suite - so we were perfectly safe. No one messes with the Duke! Don't miss the Babbitt Brothers Trading Company or the corner for hiking and outdoor gear.
Grand Canyon, Here We Come
Flagstaff turned out to be a great destination, one that we feel sure we will return to with more time added for exploration. It's only about 30 minutes to Sedona and the same to Williams, so its sits in the intersection of other great destinations. It's only 75 miles from the Grand Canyon as well as a close drive to Walnut Canyon and Meteor Crater in Winslow, AZ. Don't miss out on spending some time here, learning its history and how it has shaped the world's view of space. Your inner nerd will thank you.
