The Lure of Amalfi Coast
Amalfi
Our approach from the north to the Amalfi Coast whet our appetite for the romantic and awe-inspiring. We felt as though we had just stepped into a movie and Federico Fellini would appear shortly.
Rather than renting a car and tackling the curves of the coast, we rented a car and driver. After much research and back-and-forth with companies, we discovered Amalfi Coast Destinations and Roberto.
(left) Before we reach Amalfi, the secluded fishing village of Cetara, famous for its anchovies. (right) Entering the city of Amalfi.
Roberto, our guide, says this: everyone has "to experience the great pride of Amalfi Coast. You never get used to its mighty beauty." As we return to our car, he shouts, "Oh Mama Mia," for the traffic has doubled. Buses, cars, people weave in and out. And there's scooters; Italians call these drivers "organ donors" because of the many wrecks on the snake-like roads. Renting a driver is the best decision if you want to get in the middle of this tourist town.
I am woman. I buy leather. Italian leather. And the craftsman was more than proud to share his work.
One of the most famous stops in Amalfi, Pansa. Enjoy scrumptious pastries, including the must-have sfogliatella. Located in the middle of the square, adjacent to St. Andrews Cathedral, Pansa has been around since 1830.
Positano
Past the lemon trees, the olive trees, the fig trees and chestnut trees, the hillsides give way to the beginnings of Positiano. On the left, the hotel San Pietro. Roberto tells us that Sophia Lauren once had a home on the coast. He also says, "Nothing has been Americanized on the Amalfi Coast." It's called the Path of the Gods. As we enter the city, Roberto whispers, "What a view."
From our parking spot, it's a long trek down the hill to the water below. We pass vendors selling all types of linen goods; I buy a beautiful linen dress. There's also limoncello made inside a shop. A driver calls "Watch your legs" as he speeds past the crowds which must walk on the road.
The entire Amalif Coast is a UNESCO World Heritage site. There is no new construction allowed. The traffic is intense and Roberto tells us that in October, it will be better. (right) It's where Diane Lane called to Marcello in Under the Tuscan Sun. One of my "wow" moments.
Sorrento
With traffic increasing, we make a decision to only take a 30 minute stop in Sorrento for we have to be back in Salerno by 5 p.m. Roberto directs us toward a cafe and we find an outside table in the middle of the crowded center city. We enjoy our vino and a small pizza and people watch. Roberto tells us that Sorrento is filled with olive trees. We understand that we must spend more time here; next time, we will.
When You Go
SALERNO
Nice House in Salerno - roof top apartment in the heart of Salerno - 80 euros a night
Criscemunno - pizzaria serving hearty, traditional Italian pies; ordered and to your table in less than 5 minutes. OUTSTANDING
AMALFI COAST
Amalfi Coast Destinations - a car/driver/tour company, ask for Roberto. 8 hour excursion - 375 euros plus gratuity
AMALFI
Pansi Amalfi - pastries and Italian goodness
POSITIANO
Blitz Boutique - women's clothing, specializing in Italian linen
