Get Lost on Cumberland Island Georgia
The world of Cumberland Island National Seashore took me by surprise. I clinged to the romantic stories told by everyone I knew of galloping horses moving along the beach as their manes waved with the wind’s rhythm, something out of a romance novel. In fact, I'm not sure what I expected. Whatever it was, I was not disappointed.
For along the southern coast of Georgia is a story of people that you've only heard about in fairy tales. A life of opulence. an existence that included slavery and love affairs, of discovery and survival. of many whose lives ended in their prime, many before they got to see their dreams built or fulfilled.
It's a history lesson, one that children and adults should see first hand.
When planning your trip, visit the National Park Service website and only rely upon their postings for the most accurate information. Only 300 people are allowed on the island at a time and it is only accessible by boat or ferry; campers can only stay for a maximum of seven nights.
Day trips are possible if there is availability. Call the park visitor's center and inquire about activity on the island. A standard entrance pass is $15; this is a seven day pass; you can opt for a $45 annual pass that covers four adults. Choose one of these days for entrance fee-free pass. Keep in mind that the Cumberland Island National Seashore is cashless regarding all fees and passes. Ferry (45 minutes) fees range from $40 for adults to free for children, five and younger. Schedule your ferry trip here. Arrive at the mainland center with your ferry pass (arrive one-hour ahead of scheduled time) and passes to the island will be issued.
The most popular and busiest time of year is from early March until early June. These dates ensure the best weather with fewest bugs. All travel on the island is by foot or bike.
The road that takes visitors from the south end of the island to the north is Grand Avenue. Once filled with carriages, the vehicles of residents and rangers are the only ones allowed. Walking [and biking to some parts] is the only mode of transportation. You see the entire island, it's a 17 mile walk, one way. Ferry’s dock at two locations: Dungeness and sea camp. There are camp sites at Sea Camp [water, toilets, cold showers], Stafford Beach [flush toilets; 3.5 miles from sea camp]; backcountry sites [water but must be treated; no campfires]- Hickory Hill [5.5 miles], Yankee Paradise [7.5 miles], Brick Hill Bluff [10.6 miles]. waste must be buried. Trash must be packed out. The Dungeness ruins are located on the south end. Plum Orchard is 8 miles north. The first African American church [17 miles] is on the northern end of the island.
The Ruins of Dungeness
The structure burned in 1959 after being vacant for many years. Rumors say that it was burned by renegades looting or just causing trouble for the Carnegies. Cumberland was a visual representation of the 'have's and have not's'. They had electricity long before the St. Marys mainland. The land was given its name by James Oglethorpe who built a hunting lodge on the island. Although the lodge was ultimately destroyed, green and Carnegie who followed kept its name of Dungeness.
When the home burned in 1959, stories told of flames seen burning for three days from as far away a Saint Marys. The ruins are located on the southern end of Cumberland Island.
The Pergola
The pergola located to the right of Dungeness was inspiration to Lucy Carnegie. The ivy covered beams was the centerpiece of extensive formal gardens with palmettoes, live oaks, hedges and sculptured fountains.
The Backyard of Dungeness
Located on the marsh, horses are seen frequently around Dungeness. The horses come and go as they please and are not cared for by the park service. Twice a year, a census is taken to account for the horses. One year, the number was 108, some forty or so less than the year before. As of 2024, an estimated 150-170 roam the barrier island.
Plum Orchard
Built by Lucy Carnegie for her son George upon his marriage, Plum Orchard is an interesting stop.. He was also given a cash gift of $10,000. The home was completed in three stages at a total cost of approximately $56,000 in 1906. Today, the national park service maintains the property. There are replicas of period furniture. none of the original contents remain. After George's death, his widow Margaret sold all the furnishings. She was immediately denounced by the family and ownership of plum orchard was given to George's sister, Nancy. It is located mid-island.
Very much 'Biltmore-like’ with a pool inside the home [built in the third stage and last addition to the home] including a changing area as well as a squash court [and a viewing area] to the right of the pool.
Most northern point of Grand Avenue accessible to tourists
Once called High Point [early 1900s], it was the location of a hotel and a wharf where people would dock and be transported by carriages to the hotel. It was considered one of the the "hip places" for people to travel from Brunswick. [see the stumps rising from the beach - this is all that remains of the dock] there is no hotel today and it is a private vacation retreat for its owners. This is approximately 11 miles from sea dock.
The Ranger Station [at right]
Located at sea camp, campers have access to wheeled carts to assist carrying their items to camp. They must be returned immediately for no wheeled items are allowed in camp.
Saint Marys, Gateway to Cumberland Island
The gateway to Cumberland island, Saint Marys ferry system departs from the visitor’s center on the mainland and arrives at Sea Camp on Cumberland.
Explore the small city in addition to the island during your visit to Georgia’ coast. Spencer House Inn B & B is an ideal homebase for your adventure.
